Peru Day 22: Lima then home

Not much happening for us but buying souvenirs and hanging around Lima for the last time. Our transit to the airport fought through more traffic than expected. Our guide said it was due to tomorrow's public holiday and the city's special evening concert of Oasis. On our journey we say a long queue of people outside an official building. We asked our guide why, and he explained it was people paying their month end bills. Peruvian banks ask a cheeky percentage for direct debits.

The approach to the airport was memorable for two things: one for the smell of fish due to its neighbouring fish oil refinery; two for the amount of people wearing face masks including all staff due to the swine flu. It was at the point of checking in I developed a timely annoying tickle in my throat and started coughing. Then I remembered we shared a plane with some Mexicans back for the Nazca Lines.

Here's our final list of loves and hates of our Peru holiday

Love

• Inca Kola
• Sublime chocolate
• Casa Andina Private Collection hotels
• The weather - sun, sun, sun
• Sandbuggying
• The dunes
• Condors
• Cruz del Sol
• So much wildlife
• Pina coladas
• Machu Picchu
• Most of the reps

Hate

• Effects of high altitude
• Travellers Sickness
• "massage sir/lady'
• Too much pipe music covers of Beatles, Sinatra, Abba
• Used toilet roll bins
• San Augustin hotel, Cusco
• Treatment of animals
• Dead Woman's Pass on Inca Trail
• Pisca Sour
• Paracas
• Crap enforced cold food buffets
• Tourist tat imported from Bolivia
  

Peru Day 21: Escape from Paracas and Ballestas Islands

The last early morning for this holiday though I wouldn't say we really needed it. We bused it over to Paracas for our Ballestas Island boat excursion for an 8am start. It seemed a bit unorganised and our rep didn't quite seem to keep on top of it (like yesterday and compared to the rest of the holiday). It looked like two other tourists were being looked after by our rep who were late and didn't arrive with us. This just added to the wasted time - you can tell we were getting grumpy by now.

The 30 minute boat ride to the islands was ok (apart from the gloomy grey skies) thanks to our sea sickness pills but the side effects were drowiness so could have missed the whole trip through nodding off. We saw an ancient landmarking along the way called the 'Candilabre'. After that it was boobies, sea lions, penguins, turkey vultures and more boobies. No wonder they used to collect the crap for fertilizer! Seeing the hundreds of sealions was the highlight as they congregated on a beach with a high cliff wall behind them. Their general calls and barks was so loud echoing off the wall.

Another hour and we were back in Paracas for another tour. Didn't really get an idea what we were going to see apart from a desert national park. The first stop wasn't that inspiring for me, maybe it was the dull grey skies or the drowiness, or being spoilt the previous day with the sandbuggying. A couple more stops and the landscape became a little more interesting with high barren dunes, a sea rock similar to a famous Dorset beach cliff, a very red sandy beach and another beach for some random beachcombing.

For lunch we had to go back to Paracas which was a lot more quieter with all the tourists having the sensible idea of going elsewhere. We didn't have that option but had to endure a dodgy fish based lunch and a two hour wait - more wasted time just to wait for the only Cruz del Sol coach back to Lima.

Lima traffic was horrendous with all sizes of vehicles cutting into each other, crossing lanes...just general chaos. One amusing vehicle was a motorcycle combined with a two-wheeled cart containing what looked like the rider's elderly dad lying down under a blanket, both speeding down the motorway. Another 30 minutes battle through the traffic for the hotel (Casa Andina) transfer and room service for dinner.

Peru Day 20: Las Dunas Resort

Breakfast wasn't the best with no cereal at all but our gloomy mood soon picked up for our sand-buggying experience at 10:30am. Carlos led us to the buggy garage at the back of the resort and equipped us with helmets and goggles. The first part of the journey was across a barren, dusty scrubland and I almost thought this would be the track. Instead we headed through a gate and towards the proper desert dunes.

From here on the dunes got bigger and the ride wilder like a rollercoaster. Pretty soon with the speed and distance we were surrounded by desert. Our second stop was to see an oasis of ...asparagus! In the desert! Then at the top of a dune I tried sandboarding. It took some wax and the board looked like it had seen better days with two small fins for stability but the ride was easy with good balance. No chance of turning unfortunately like with snowboarding.

Back in the buggy for some more sliding, climbing dunes, flooring over ridges and a surprise of reversing up the hill completed one of the best moments of the holiday as we were both grinning from ear to ear. Best N$90 spent yet.

The hotel swimming pool was quiet and relaxed (disturbed later by sewer maintenance engineering noise) until lunch, which we shared company with a group of Japanese tourists (one guy wore a full-on parker coat with hood). I think it was their guide who was surprised with a birthday cake, balloons and a jester hat to wear. The rest of their party acted quited reservedly as expected.

We walked around the resort coming across a family of turkeys, chickens, horses and llamas. Returning to the main complex we played ping pong then moaned about the noise. More swimming pool exercise with some volleyball, a couple of pina coladas and a view from the large dune behind the hotel for a sunset photo opportunity.

For N$21 we attended the Nazca Lines planetorium. After the pina coladas it nearly sent us to sleep as it was so dull and the visuals a little blurred. A quality buffet, check of the email and a small reminder to the reception that we could still hear the builders at work. A radio call quietened them but they still shouted at each other - not sure if our phonecall did anything but with a 5:20am wake up, we insisted they shut-the-f*ck-up!

Peru Day 19: Lima to Ica and the Nazca Lines

Yawn! 5:15am alarm and a pickup for 6:20am to get to the Cruz del Sol coach station for our 4 hour journey down the coast to Ica and our potential stomach churn of flying above the Nazca Lines.

We were expecting something quite basic but instead it was a luxury coach with reclining seats, footrests, TV etc. However, this didn't stop us moaning about the jazzy muzak they insisted on playing. We endured it watching the Monday morning rush hour plod into Lima city as traffic built up, buses collected passengers and as the city limits thinned the shanty towns influence increased. The landscape got more desolate with stoney, grey dune like hills with the main motorway cut through and huge advertising boards flanked either side sometimes with 3D effects.

A quick safety video telling us the bus was being tracked by GPS and the drivers get changed halfway then they changed it to a DVD of Beowulf - result! A couple of observations: some larger business sites had turret like watch towers for night security; there were politcial graffiti saying 'Fujimuri Innocenti' - the ex-president and notorious bent politician; then we saw a shanty restaurant named 'Kevin'.

As well as the DVD, we were briefly entertained by a game of bingo which Kerry narrowly got beaten for a line. Net video was Jumper which was quite good but lost its edge towards the end. We arrive at Las Dunas hotel about 11:45am to slight confusion and a paranoid bus attendant for our bag then the tour rep seemed more interested in other people. Our first room was two single beds so whinged to the porter expecting nothing. They then called us to say they'll move us. Thing is the builders are renovating a wing with drilling on one side and gardeners chopping or cutting grass on the other.

In the sweltering desert heat we grabbed a sandwich since our tour rep decided not to tell us the plane trip over the Nazca Lines had been put back until 1:45pm. The chicken sandwich (wrong one ordered) was tough but edible though took its time coming. At the scheduled time we met the rep who apologised tha the trip had been put back again until 3pm! Booked our sandbuggy experience for N$180.

Finally we got picked up for the 5 minute transfer to the local airport but was told we had to wait again until 4pm. Kerry's paranoia started to build as she feared the motion sickness would get her the people on the flight before us made her more worried until they confirmed it was more about the heat in the plane than the motion.

Finally we were in plane with the Norfolk couple and a Mexican couple for a 1 hour 20 minute flight across the desert. The first triangle shape line was quite hard to see but others got easier to spot and photograph as teh pilot swooped in for both window sides. The Astronaut shape looked like a kid had drawn it but the classic Nazca Lines looked great. Touchdown completed a successful flight with Kerry not being sick, just a bit scared.

Has a couple of pina colada cocktails and a buffet (most expensive yet). It was good with duck a l'orange. With the early start it didn't take long to fall asleep even though the builders were working late.

Peru Day 18: Arequipa to Lima

The pills seem to be working and feeling alot better with the confidence to go out for a last look around Arequipa town centre. Being a Sunday nearly everything was shut but it was only 10:45am and we predicted an 11am opening after the church-goers got chucked out.

We got accosted by the tourist police and were given a pamphlet on personal security with some quite bad English translation. Found a cafe for cold drinks over looking the Plaza de Armas (main square). Kerry ordered a dodgy meringue/pavlova turning out to be a hot flan, hot strawberry and whipped (from a can) cream. Three single decker buses with Metropolitan Transport De Barcelona turned up to collect a mass of disabled church goers, all of them getting hassled by ice-cream sellers etc.

When the shops did open we bought a few souvenirs and wandered around a bit more. As we headed back to the hotel we were approached by a beggar who had no hands! He just held out his stumps asking for spare change - where do you put the coins? Try and balance them on his wrists? Be cruel and throw it to the ground? Out of the weirdness of the situation we walked on, poor guy!

Jetted back to Lima for an overnight stay at Casa Andina. Although we had to be up ridicously early we went down to the hotel's swimming pool for a dip. Unfortuantely, the pool heater was out of order but that didn't stop Kerry (I bottled it). Next we tried the sauna, dry and humid. which I've decided I'll probably never do again as the heat and claustrophobia gets to me.

Peru Day 17: Condors

Recurring theme warning: had a normal breakfast as feeling well enough but this wasn't the best idea as I'll explain later. The mini-bus left for Colca Canyon at 6:30am and stopped a number of times to appreciate the deep, wide valley views. Locals had got wind of tourists would be there and were out in force with souvenirs or had dressed up for the occasion and brought their pet llamas in case we wanted to pay for photos. Luckily the views were free and were good value. The driver played a trick on us turning off the van lights whilst going through a tunnel, and Jordie, our rep told a story about some very serious East Germans not appreciating his cheeky humour.

We arrived at the condor viewpoint and walked for about 20 minutes towards the canyon edge. The birds themselves had appeared on the far side and we almost thought we were too late for their flying show. However, we stood at a viewpoint for a few minutes and gradually one, two then three condors glided close to us. Some were brown indicating they were teenagers but still enormous like their parents in black plumage, white collars and shining blue wings. They were majestic and silent riding the thermals unlike us clicking away like paparazzi and cooing with delight. More condors turned up and favoured a particular thermal so we moved further towards the bulging tourist crowd. The condors didn't seem be bothered by the attention and even the flock mulitplied to about 12 before we left. As we left we bumped into an English couple we'd met yesterday. Bit of a 'what, what, tally-ho' moment as he said 'see you back at the ranch'.

We were back on the road after about 150 photos and some good video footage, heading towards another buffet lunch in Chivay. Luckily not the same place as yesterday but it turned out to be below par in different ways (though I had at least an appetite and didn't mind the battered bananas and apples). Our newly joined couple to our Llama Travel group were suffering badly with altitude sickness which was interesting to watch now we were used to it. It was a long and boring 3 hour drive back to Arequipa with a couple of stops for Peruvian livestock photo moments though we were getting too used to them now.

Fergie loving Doc
Back at the Casa Andina, we managed to get almost the same room number by one, bagging its neighbour. My illness still hadn't improved so decided to use our free afternoon to see a doctor. The hotel had its own medic onsite so no hassles with organising a taxi. The stomach cramps came and went with the latest just as the doctor knocked at the room door. He was accompanied with someone who looked like a maintenance bloke, an assistant with toolbox. the first thing to make the situation difficult was he spoke less than perfect English and neither did his assistant. The second thing to complicate the situation was that he didn't understand my accent but explained he was more used to dealing with Americans! Alot of re-phrasing, writing down some words to help and some stomach probing he came up with his analysis of travel sickness. He dismissed the gudiebook's recommendation of full anti-biotics though I was still confused as to what he was going to prescribed or even advise to do. By then, Kerry had returned from the internet room and shared the incommunicado. He tried saying something about Arequipians were compared to some Spanish word we couldn't work out. El doctor then started writing a note whilst trying to ask us something not knowing whether he was still diagnosing me or making small talk. "You know vocalists?", er what? "You know, (sounded like) Bat-alls?", you mean Beatles? "Yes, John Lennon. What did he play?" Er, guitar? "No, he vocalist yes?" Yes, a singer...(where's this going exactly?) "Yes, like Madonna", yes, she's a singer too(??). "And Fergie, she is a singer". After confirming he meant Black Eyed Peas, still confused but yes. "She's English, yes?"Er, no she is American. "She is English, no?" Obviously not convinced...and had nothing to do with my illness.

We Googled the medication he prescribed as we were a bit worried he hadn't given me something like an anti-depression drug but it checked out ok. With a tasty but plain hotel meal we watched some bizarre comedy show sponsored by Brahma beer. Most of the presenters were dressed as members from Thunder Cats and ordering from a bar.

Peru Day 16: Colca Canyon

A reasonable 8:30am pickup for our trip to Colca Lodge accompanied by the Norfolk couple and newly joined Mancunians, Paul and Catherine. The journey was all at high altitude reaching its peak at 4900 metres.

School visit
Before getting to this height we visited a remote school where we had been briefed to buy colour pens/pencils for the children. They were all hurdled around a laptop about to watch a TV programme but were very pleased to see us putting on a song for us and giving us drawings in exchange for our gifts. It was humbling to learn that a pair of children had to walk 3 hours just to get to school.

The highest point was full of tourists and their mini-vans, as like a lot of this holiday, we seemed to be on the same 'gringo trail'. As well as as the tourists there were loads of stacked rocks everywhere, built by past tourists not by Incas. A few more stops, the wildlife spotting continued with wild pink flamingoes, vicunyas (smallest breed of llamas) and the strangest rabbits with long bushy tails.

Colca Lodge
Our buffet lunch was a bit rubbish for the 20 N.Sols then another 30 minutes we reached our night's stay of Colca Lodge, which was an amazing sight peached on the side of a valley with a stream running against it. Spooting the outdoor natural hot springs we wasted no time to dip into the 35 C degree H2O relaxation. More relaxing in our room then straight to the bar for cocktails (which maybe be regretted in my bunged up condition). The internet connection speed was the worst yet.

Luckily (fingers still crossed), the buffet dinner of asparagus soup, alpaca meat (tasted like good tender beef) went down well, just as good as our tour rep's funny stories and jokes including his mate's wife's shoe story and the cockrel in the cinema joke. Another early night to our wooden lodge room with single beds and a treehouse like ladder to the mezzanine floor above. 5:20am wake up tomorrow to see the condors.

Peru Day 15: Arequipa

A good night's sleep but the disappointment of not being able to eat the amazing breakfast buffet which Kerry stuffed herself with (French toast, maple syrup, bacon, fruit salad, scrabbled eggs on toast and the trimmings). I was limited to toast though sneaked in a small bowl of cereal.

We headed over to the main square in search of some non-tacky souvenirs and shopping. We still found some but this is Arequipa and there were hardly anyone hassling us plus the shops were almost European normal. Shame the tourist prices had quadrupled.

Juanita was next on our list to see. She's a frozen mummy found locally on top of a mountain sacrificed as part of the Inca worship. She wasn't in as she's quite popular touring the world (at 12-14 + 500 years). The tour around her modern day home at the university's museum was quite interesting with lots of artifacts and the final piece shown by the English speaking guide was a huge humming transparent freezer which was home to another sacrificed girl found near to Juanita. Apparently Incas sacrificed everytime an earthquake happened as if it was the gods requesting it.

A bit more shopping and back to the main square, getting accosted by a deaf and mute bloke collecting for charity then spotted a roof terrace for our lunch. Fantastic views of the cathedral and main square plus spotted some hawks catching the midday thermals. The chicken lunch was a bit tough but the potato rostis were muy bien.

Got collected from the hotel at 2pm for our tour and headed out of town for some more excellent landscape views. First was a colonial style park and church, the second a kind of farm/garden/guinea-pig slaughterhouse. the third part of the tour was the old convent. It was introduced as a city within a city and certainly had the size to have its own streets named after nuns. Each nun, who had to be stacked with money to even gain entry, be the second born(?!) and bring her own servants whilst she took her vow of 'silencio'. Once you saw one of their small living quarters, you soon got the idea of what the place was about and it was more about capturing the tranquility and beauty of the place - shame the other tourists go in the shot.

A small walk over to the main square and a visit inside the main cathedral. It was quite modern inside with holy mannequins displayed in large glass cabinets. The tour rep said the organ (3rd biggest in the world) had been sent to Belguim by ship for repair and took 3 years to come back. The other main church across the road was more impressive with gold holy stuff and trinkets on display (relics reminding me of a Blackadder episode like Christ's fingers). the adjoining courtyards had been converted into posh tourist shops including a hat shop which Kerry bought a Del Monte fruit empire hat.

The evening wasn't that pleasant as my bottom illness returned with more burps - should have gone to the docs!

Peru Day 14: Cusco to Arequipa

Feeling a little better today but still eating toast and soda biscuits to bung me up. Kerry wanted to buy some more souvenirs so we had a last minute wander through the urine-smelling lanes buying the cheapest but biggest croissants ever for brunch. We got back to the hotel to wait for our 11:30am pick up and were confronted by two of the hotel reception staff. Llama Travel had forwarded Kerry's complaint email and they wanted to sort it out with us! Bit embarrassing but I think they were quite sorry about their attitude etc. A little language difficulty and even Fernando, our Cusco rep was keen to sort it out on our behalf.

We approached the airport to find that the tour reps were picketing outside the gates and it was impossible to enter by car. Slightly concerned we wouldn't be able to catch our flight, it was simply a case of walking through the gates with our cases. Phew! The flight to Arequipa stopped at Juliaca which is the nearest town to Lake Titicaca taking less than 30 minutes.

The transfer from the airport to our hotel in Arequipa was like traveling through another country. Arequipa is very rich compared to Cusco - the size and moderness of the petrol stations, the cars were a lot newer and less beaten up and very little visible poverty. The Casa Andina was our most luxurious hotel yet, a complete opposite to the Sant Augustin in Cusco. The hotel must have been an old colonnial building with a courtyard for the lounge, smart alcoves with Renaisance art, cacti and chandeliers. You just couldn't help feeling like a millionaire. Our room matched the decadence with a bed needing a taxi to get across it's width, a flat-screen wide TV and a decent toilet with two roll dispensers, very handy for later!

We tried looking for a cafe (by this time it was nearly 5pm) as we had only crisps before the flight but gave up after only finding Turkish or Moroccan restaurants (there's a lot of German visitors here apparently). We headed back to the hotel and ordered the best chicken sandwich ever. The prices had jumped up but it was worth it. We rested on our acre-sized bed watching more dubbed or subtitled TV but then my stomach decided to do an encore of the day before's pebble-dash. This time it seemed worse with painful cramps and the trips more frequent. Thankfully Kerry had some medicinal bung pills and by 10pm I was exhausted so fell asleep.

Peru Day 13: Cusco

Got organised with some tactical pre-packing, breakfast (a very depressed piper getting his notes wrong) then checked out a museum where some skulls were discovered with elongated shapes and some with trepanation (drilled with holes). Like the previous museums in Cusco it was small and with only one or two really interesting artifacts. It only took 15 minutes to see it all. We finally found a decent cafe, Cappuccino which thankfully served decent cappuccinos over looking the main plaza.

Lunch was at Jack's Cafe which served the largest plates I've seen, obviously catering for the American market, which there were at the time, but the young, thin kind. Although the burger ordered tasted good it wasn't such a good idea (or what was eaten for breakfast). More on that later.

We looked at the hotel's dial-up speed internet for an animal rescue/zoo the French-Canadian's recommended. They'd seen rescued pumas, condors and speckled bears. Only a Trip Advisor blog mentioned it but no address details supplied. The hotel's receptionist couldn't be bothered to help me either so I went to the local tourist centre. No luck there either as no one spoke English, and even a helpful tourist in front of me translated my request but still no joy.

When I got back to the hotel room my stomach cramps came back with avengence as well as its brown relative. Since then I have being having an intimate relationship with the toilet and I think Kerry's suspect another woman in my life. Between the cramps and visits to the toilet we've been coping with cable TV and a dodgy working remote control. Can't wait to get out of Cusco!

Peru Day 12: A happy Machu Picchu birthday Kerry

The last day of the hike before reaching Machu Picchu had to be started extra early so why change the routine of the holiday! 4:00am start - Yay! Loving those early nights! Breakfast was a special moment for us as Socrates gave the ruse of pancakes but really the cook had been preparing a birthday cake. It was great with a sponge base, not too sweet, white frosted cream topping, written in caramel sauce, Happy Birthday Kerry (in Spanish), and 2 matches for a candle. Kerry was in tears of delight as we all sang happy birthday and the cake cut in equal shares between us and the porters etc.

Before queuing up for the checkpoint opening, we had to meet our rep at the restaurant. A quick look in the toilets before the last trek wasn't the best idea as it seemed everyone had been before us leaving them in the most inhumane state I've ever seen (it was piled up). Instead, we joined the back of the 200+ queue for the 15 minutes before the 5:30am opening time. It was a fast start with some easy stretches with inly some steep steps towards the end. It took about an hour and 15 mins, by which dawn had broken, to reach the steepest stairs yet - 60 steps of vertical bastardness! At the top was the Sun Gate and our first view of Machu Picchu. It was breathtaking and a lot bigger than I expected, though sharing the vista with 50 others was a bit weird. Still photos a plenty, but onwards for another rich view to enjoy, and llamas!

Machu Pucchu
The main site was relatively quiet but buses were starting to feed the Machu Picchu site making our 3.5 day trek seems a little worthless. We were getting annoyed and frustrated with the rules of having to hand in my small backpack as more tourists entered the site. In retrospect, we had the best entrance and first view but it seemed cruel to open the gates to the lazy, bused in people. Anyone who's walked more than 2 days there should have the privilege of the site for the first hour.

Socrates, our guide took us round for an hour explaining the main features but I was either busy taking photos or trying to rest, avoiding the sun - remember we only had birthday cake for breakfast! Our starting point had an amazing view of the mountain and most of the Inca site. Llamas were grazing nearby, finches hopped around and swallows swooped above our heads making it a perfect, magical place, perfect for I wanted to give Kerry her birthday surprise.

Kerry's birthday surprise
With hunger, tiredness and some suffering from the heat, we settled for a quiet position to watch the swallows divebomb and lines of tourists following their guide or being whistled at by the security guard. After a prepacked sandwich to recover the energies we explored the lower terraces but couldn't quite return to that perfect place I had in mind. Instead we settled for a lower position still with a view of the mountain and main Inca ruins. I was little nervous and shy, plus I had to get Kerry in the standing position and myself kneeling for the right moment. With our 'Sasha' toy cat as a photo ploy I managed to re-propose and present Kerry with her diamond engagement ring. A slight look of shock, confusion then absolute elation whilst I went from a nervous wreck to one smiley, loved up guy...ahh! We'd somehow managed to attract a small crowd above us with some applause which added to the magic moment. Unfortunately, even after all the jeweller's advice, the ring was actually too small so Kerry could only wear it on her little finger (even after returning to normal altitudes it had to be resized).

We hung around getting some llama photos but couldn't muster the energy for a hike up to the top again so went in search of a cold drink and food. The cafe at the entrance had the most expensive prices yet, even more than UK top tourist spots. A small tub of Pringles was 13 Sols, or £5! Still the ice cream and Inca Cola went down well.

We caught up with our French Canadian friends and caught the stomach churning 30 minute bus ride down the mountain stopping at Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu town). It was a strange new town divided by the train line and felt like a modern cowboy film set. Socrates had advised us to meet at a restaurant to collect our porter baggage and have a final goodbye meal. We ordered pizza and beer, and watched a guinea pig get roasted in the same oven. It looked like a charred rat with a toothy expression.

Train back to (almost) Cusco
Our backpacker class tickets were handed over at the station where it looked like everyone who visited Machu Picchu that day was heading back to Cusco. The train looked like a second hand refit from 1920's and was just as uncomfortable. The seats faced inwards and had very little leg room, just what a tired trekker really needs! Windows were permanently open to relieve the constant rocking side to side queasiness with a number of people looking a bit worse for wear. For 3 long hours I had to endure the worst stitch I've ever had (which could only be relieved by sitting in the brace position) and put up with some old Americans sharing their lame opinions on such dull subjects (one small moment of twisted joy was hearing them go on about the lightning they thought they saw - it was actually my camera flash). The train didn't even get to Cusco stopping short a few miles outside at Poroy. A car-park full of tourist mini-vans were waiting for us for the remaining 20 minute drive. The journey through Cusco showed a less than tourist view of Peruvian life with dogs eating from skips or running in packs across the road, lots of internet cafes neighbouring corner shops selling bottled drinks and chocolate, and the odd bloke taking a piss on the street here and there.

We didn't bother about dinner as we got back about 9pm but instead fell asleep watching a rubbish TV channel that showed you how to make arts and crafts - tonight's was frilly g-strings, no, really it was!

Peru Day 11: Paying the Porters

6am start with a brew served through the tent flap again. We'd managed some sleep though it was the coldest night so far. Didn't appreciate the tight schedule for breakfast, toilet and decamping, it was just one big rushed hassle. Even though the ham and cheese omelette was good I wanted a few more minutes to let it go down before the trek. Mostly because my stomach wasn't happy but at least the walk was relatively simple stopping for a break/lunch at around 11am. Whilst Kerry was visiting the ladies Socrates let me in to a secret that the cook was to make a birthday cake for tomorrow's breakfast!

The rest of the hike was actually quite relaxing with the paths high on the mountain side with stunning views of distant waterfalls and walking through a couple of small tunnels. The flora and fauna was, like the rest of the hike, colourful and varied traveling through some cloud forest areas. The very last stage was almost a jog down to the final campsite as we'd found some untapped energy or just wanted the day to end with the prospect of a shower.

The restaurant/campsite was quite run down and had a booth/cashier system to pay for drinks, showers and food. The cost of the shower was about 5 Sols plus a hotel sized bar of soap an extra 1.20 Sols. It was debatable to say the shower was worth it as the water was cold and icky feeling of getting dressed in puddles of dirty water.

Our cook had cooked up some extremely addictive cheese won tons and popcorn for a pre-dinner snack. The porters had erected a toilet tent so we didn't have to use the distant restaurant's - shame the zip door had broken.

Porter tipping
After our unusually cold dinner (a flattened, huge meatball and chips), Socrates announced the porter's ceremony would follow and recommended we should discuss the amount to tip. He could only advice on splitting the tip by the group of 7 porters and and the catering staff. This was an awkward decision and although Kerry had read it was US$30 per hiker we were keen to provide more. In the end it was about US$50 from each of us distributed by the 3 catering staff getting $100 and the 7 porters getting $100. It was up to them how to split amongst them. We said a few words of appreciation, translated by Socrates. Finally we shook each and every porter and catering staff's hand. The internal worry of whether we tipped enough continued amongst us though felt better that Kerry overheard some American students saying they'd tipped alot less.

Peru Day 10: Nearly Dead Woman's Pass

A pretty crap night's sleep due to the slanty position. Even though the tour provided a ground mat and blow up mat, and we brought our own blow up mattress it was a hard rest. The donkey, dog and rain sound effects didn't help either. Breakfast was at 6:30am was a limited choice of Peruvian porridge.

Our guide warned us it would be the hardest part of the whole trail and it certainly was. The first section was challenging but, unlike the hot sunshine from yesterday, it was refreshingly cool having to wear coats at the start. The first break didn't come soon enough for Kerry and we were allowed to rest and eat for as long as we liked with the next section taken at our pace. Our packed brunch was a green mandarin, chocolate bar (Sublime) and a ham/cheese sandwich - all well needed fuel for the worst part of the trek.

It was a punishing, never ending steep stepped journey which could only be taken at a slow, short stepping pace. We left the last rest point at 11am for two hours of energy sapping hell. Our French-Canadian friends didn't rest like us so were at least 30 minutes in front. Kerry was soon out of breath with the altitude's thin air and starting to doubt herself with the challenge. Poor girl almost gave up as we both felt at rock-bottom. Some tears, some motivational talk and some swearing at the 'rocky b*stard/f*cker' got us to the top of the aptly named 'Dead Woman's Pass'. It was slightly annoying hearing all the cheers of the Americans motivating their friends but as we saw our rep, Socrates and Julien and Cynthia waiting for us it gave us enough energy to finish. Hugs and more tears to congratulate each other, even I nearly drew a tear for Kerry for making it this far.

We rested for 15 minutes before tackling the long 90 minute stepped path downwards. It wasn't quite as tough but after awhile the boredom of crunching knees became tiresome. The sight of camp was a blessing, although there was a little way to go having to wind our way through the dozens of other campsites. The hike's talk of fast food such as KFC, pizza and burgers along the way, I nearly shed another tear as the main course of lunch was almost a wish come true of chicken and chips.

We tried a siesta having tried a new comfort tactic but the deafening sound of running water was all around us. As we came out of unsuccessful siesta we noticed how the porters were taking turns to guard our tents with one of them serving coffee to us without having to get up - a nice touch.

Due to the altitude and late lunch we couldn't really do the evening meal much justice. Had a few rounds of a card game called President then headed to bed. As well as the constant sound of rushing water, a 1000 frogs decided to practice their Kermit chorus making sleep almost impossible. The tent was pitched between two streams of mountain water and the ground being concrete hard made the situation worse and both of us lost it big time with a tantrum at our pillows. God knows what time we'd somehow got unconsciously comfortable but sworn we'd never, ever do camping again.

Peru Day 9: Inca Trail start

Although we had to get up at 4:45am we were feeling much better compared to yesterday. After our hotel pick up the van driver picked up the other pair of travelers for the trek, a French-Canadian couple. Julien and Cynthia had only arrived in Peru a few days ago and were going to Bolivia straight after the 3.5 day hike. We stopped in Pisac for our last provisions stop. Even though I had a 20 sols note, the shop-keeper still had to go to another business to get me change. Using a restaurant's backyard toilet also revealed countryside life as there were a couple of guinea-pig hutches and chickens roaming free.

It took about 2 hours to get to the starting point where we met the rest of our party - 2 chefs, a waiter, our guide and 7 porters. Our first stage of walking was very easy stopping a number of times to look at flora and fauna whilst being overtaken by porters carrying doors, concrete blocks, pipes etc, and passing those hikers who couldn't quite hack it on horses going back to the start. Otherwise it was relatively quiet. Both our lunch break and final campsite was ready waiting for us with food almost ready to be served. Every mealtime drink had to be spilt as an offering to the Mother Earth and say thanks. The campsite itself was surrounded by huge mountains and had a small Inca ruin nearby. Lots of donkeys, dogs and chickens were roaming free around the site.

After an evening meal we were introduced to all the porters with Socrates translating their details of name, age, married/singe/kids, hometown etc. I was last to introduce myself (using the Robin Hood/red breasted bird explanation), and scarily, the oldest by 4 years although from some of the porters' appearance we expected them to be in their 40's. Even the youngest, at 18 looked like he was in his mid-twenties. Just shows you how tough a porter's job is.

Peru Day 8: Sacred Valley

So surprised we forced ourselves out of bed for today's trip with a midnight run to the toilet and Kerry getting full-on stomach cramps. Somehow we pulled ourselves out of the doldrums. The journey went passed the previous day's excursion and climbed to 3800m. We felt physically better as soon as the road went down into the Sacred Valley and were spoiled with the stunning views. Every decent parking view point had locals selling the same tat sold everywhere else.

Pisac market at the base of the valley was quite a cultural confrontation as the tour rep took us through the food market. She was picking up maize and vegetables to show us, pulling them apart in front of the selling. It was slightly uncomfortable to watch but the seller didn't seem bothered. The rest of the time was looking up and down the many rows of almost the same souvenir stalls as those everywhere else.

Our next destination, delivered at top speed (our driver seemed addicted to overtaking), to Ollynantambo, an extremely steep terraced Inca outpost. The opposite mountain had a carving of an Inca king silhouette.

Lunch was at a halfway point back to Cusco at a large hotel. It was a simple buffet of roast potatoes, rice and chicken, just right for our sick tums. After lunch, our journey to another Inca ruin was a mixture of rural countryside, old or dilapidated farm buildings, lots of livestock and alot more donkeys than I was expecting. Our driver did us the favour of getting there before the coach loads of other tourists arrived allowing us a quiet and peaceful tour. I can't quite remember the proper name, something like Chicabayo(?), but the ruins themselves weren't really worth the very slow trek up hill (more altitude!). It was the neighbouring Catholic church (16th century) that made up for the visit.

A few more landscape photos on the way back to Cusco then an early night, with fingers-crossed, that we would be in better health for tomorrow's Inca Trail start.

Peru Day 7: Cusco. No gracias

Breakfast was slightly disappointing with a more Germanic based buffet (too much sausage meat). I ended up with sugar puffs in strawberry smoothie and toast. Coffee still tastes like crap. The food was accompanied by a solo pan-piper with backing tracks of Beatles, Frank Sinatra etc., all a bit full on for 8am.

Our morning's excursion was visiting the local museums and notable ruins. The first was the main temple which the Spanish built on top with their own church. The Inca's stonework was perfectly built using no mortar, just stacked and cut to perfection. I would have liked more time at this museum but the tour rep was keen to get drive us to the city's hills (more altitude!) to see the Inca military fortress of Saqsayhuaman. It had some fantastic views of Cusco and you could see the flightpath and planes landing at the airport. On a nearby hill, the locals had been given a smaller version of Rio's Jesus statue that overlooked the city.

The Temple of the Mother Earth was next where sacrifices were made then another, unnecessary, stop to see a view before a long (by this altitude's standard) hike to the Water temple - all a bit video adventure game like for me. The water was alpine fresh and chilled and apparently has 'magical' powers. The guide when asked explained that the sellers of Peruvian souvenirs were really local farmers buying in cheaper Bolivian stuff to sell. All we wanted at the time was chocolate and a drink! A couple more stops with constant Peruvian stall selling their colourful ware, plus more trying to sell ornamental pumas or themselves for photos - 'no gracias' was automatic by now.

Last stop of the tour was a baby alpaca factory outlet. The local dogs are really ignorant of traffic with one refusing to budge for us as we tried to park. Everything was a bit expensive, and buying woolly clothing whilst its summer at home was just weird. A treat for your granny perhaps but nothing for us.

The altitude was getting easier by now and managed to walk about a bit more looking for for a decent lunch. Jack's Cafe was too busy so we settled for Manne Cafe - food was good but the appetite still below par. The 'traveller's sickness' is affecting me and nearly had a toilet paper emergency after forgetting to take off the 'Do not disturb' sign from the hotel room.

The tour ticket given to us on the morning also allowed us free entry to other museums. We visited the Modern Art and a local history museum. A couple of really nice pieces that had to photographed whereas the history museum had a lot of Inca bowls, jewelry etc., but personally I like the OTT Catholic art showing the mother and baby Jesus - it was Renaissance but more gaudy.

Cusco square was full of demonstrators which we'd been told by our tour rep were students and other tour reps angry at non-qualified people getting their potential jobs. Nothing violent, just a few banners and songs of protest.

We received our Machu Picchu briefing from Socrates, our trail rep, who gave me some good advice for my traveller's sickness. I'm now on a diet of water and biscuits. Our trip to the local supermarket found us in the more commercial side of Cusco away from the tourist centre. A lot less massage sellers hassling us and but more of shoppers. It was amusing for me to see street vendors every do often selling the oddest of things. One guy sold nothing but hangers and wall hooks, another selling just chopping boards. When we returned to the hotel room I had the biggest panic ever that I'd lost Kerry's surprise birthday present of a diamond engagement ring. With Kerry in the same room watching me getting more and more wound up, I was very close to telling her what had happened. It turned up in the strangest place inside the bed's pillow case. Phew!

Peru Day 6: Escape from the jungle

A slightly chilly night by jungle standards and another early start of 5:30am for our boat ride back. Our flight was at 12:50pm and the boat ride would take 90 minutes, quicker as it was downstream...thank god. Kind of glad really and looking forward to more kinder climates and less early starts. Last nature spots were two humming birds.

A quick transfer from the boat to bus (running down local stray cows and dodging dogs refusing to move out of the middle of the road) then a hasty re-pack at the office. We got to the airport about 10:15am and increased our salt intake by 300% with crisps and Ritz biscuits. Peurto Maldonado airport is small with lattice walls to let the air flow through and jetplane noise.

The flight to Cusco was a very short 35 minutes and the temperature difference was appreciated. Kerry was the firs (and worst) to suffer from the altitude feeling sick from the sensation of the floor moving. I was just taking it easy with shallow beathing. Cusco itself was alot less developed as Lima though it was refreshing to see some traditional Peruvian fashions still being worn. Lots of Inca statues around the city and the flanking hills had huge murals with Inca iconography. The guide gave us some good advice to take the day very easy with light meals and coca leaf tea. The news of a more reasonable 8:30am pick up for our next Cusco tour was welcomed.

Our Cusco hotel, the Sant Augustine feels like a 1970's chalet hotel with cave like walls. We rested a bit, watched a bit of telly then found an English run cafe called Moni which served Marmite toast for 5 Sols. The cafe was full of Swindon and Wiltshire images, Stonehenge and football teams etc. We could only manage soup and garlic bread with the altitude affecting our appetite. It also stopped us from walking too far as every footstep was shortened to an 80 year old's pace. Another rest at the hotel, a tepid warm bath and a small snooze to recover.

The hotel's restaurant price was ridiculously high so ventured out to the nearby Inca House which had mixed traditional and pizza/pasta menu. After ordering, an Inca pipe band turned up to play some Beatles and Paul Simon covers as well as some traditional tuneage. They were quite good so bought a CD as a present. Pizza came out cold but even when it was reheated neither of us could even eat half of it because of the altitude. The complimentary pisco sour (Peru's national drink) was served tasted fowl at first then had an interesting after taste.

Peru Day 5: No wonder they call it the Rainforest

With the open wall style lodgings we heard our neighbours get up at 3:30am for their final departure - keep it down! Then our wake up call from our rep, Delford (he did this in person) at 4:30am though to say that the first trip was cancelled until 8:00am because of the rain so more sleep.

Breakfast was disappointing though we both needed something plain for our dodgy innards. A small boat ride upstream to visit a parrot lick. It was a very muddy bank to climb onto then a 40 minute hike through 'secondary' forest. My choice of socks soon became noticed as my ankles rubbed more and more. The heat, lack of food and the dreaded diarrhoea from the morning got me down. By the parrot lick I was glad to rest but a bit miffed at the lack of birds. The stomach cramps and diarrhoea came back with a vengeance as I paced up and down praying for toilet roll, Luckily, Nico the German girl with us had brought some with her, so with some advice from Delford I legged it away for some brown relief - hopefully no one will find that mess for awhile!

Back at the viewing hut things had got more exciting as we spotted two toucans then two macaws. Both sets not interested in flying down to the lick as it was still too wet from the rain. Again, curse my money pinching ways for not buying a bigger camera lens as the colourful birds were just too far for decent snaps. Apparently macaws go in pairs and look out for each other in case eagles attack. Toucans are quite lazy as they only fly after its rained and cooled down, just like us Brits.

We walked back to the boat learning a thing or two about local plants. My ankles were getting really cut up by now, and with the baking midday heat, I was glad to get out of the wellies and have some food. The first course was cold, boiled potato, egg and curry sauce - blurrgah, avoid! Luckily, the second course of roast chicken and rice helped bung me up.

Nico gave me some plasters and iodine cream to patch up my poor ankles then we tried another siesta before our planned trip to a farm and pre-evening hike. The builders and volleyball playing staff tested our powers of sleep but it was the pounding rain that got us up. After that we decided to not go to the afternoon's excursion and rest in preparation for Machu Picchu.

We're getting used to the toilet situation of not flushing away the paper but could really do without the squits. We're now avoiding the provided filter water in favour of bottled from the bar. After speaking to our rep, Delford (who I've since taught him to say 'Rodney, you plonker!') we're also stopped taking the malaria tablets as he's assured us that no mosquitos carry it in the local area. This might have been the cause of both our stomach problems. The afternoon was just catching up with my journal and learning how to play chess with Kerry. Before sleeping we had to evacuate a rat who was more interested in gnawing the wooden floor than my oncoming foot!

Peru Day 4: Jungle Trail

Somehow the temperature dropped enough to wake up with all the bed covers on me as it rained last night and at 5:30am we had our first jungle breakfast - strawberry yoghurt, cornflakes and pancakes. At 6am we were puling on wellies and trekking through mud. Lots of interesting jungle vegetation plus we saw and heard some different monkeys. The Fig, Telephone, Pregnant and Erotic trees were seen on our hike.

We got down to the oxbow lake for a paddle hoping to see some otters or anacondas. None of these were seen but there were some unusual birds and some bats in the surrounding trees. The heat really started to beat down - it was too hot to wear sunglasses. Across the lake we saw two enormous trees at least 40 metres or taller with their 'buttress' roots supporting them and the largest snail I'd ever seen, the size of a pasty! By the end of the trek we were desperate for our cold showers and scoffed at the idea of another 40 minutes of walking in sweltering heat to see a mammal lick. We were getting grouchy and hot so the mid-morning siesta was essential for our mental health.

A 1pm lunch of mild chicken curry and a banana plus another siesta then another long walk to see how brazil nuts are harvested. If it wasn't for the unforgiving heat and 30 minute trek we would have cared a bit more (make sure you have breathable clothes). Next was the canopy tower which was one giant scaffolding tower. The view was impressive but there wasn't many feathered friends passing us by or getting anywhere close enough for decent photos. We were offered another trek to see some insects but again cold showers were a priority.

After the evening meal we both had a massage which just made me jumpy and tense. We'll see tomorrow if it had any benefit.

Peru Day 3: Flight to the Jungle

A ridiculous start time with a pick up from the hotel of 6:00am with no proper breakfast. We got to know the retired couple from Norfolk - Judy and Maurice from Cromer who joined us on the very bumpy transit to Lima airport. Our Peruvian guide decided to make our journey even more testing pumping up the volume to the local Latin American radio station.

The check-in was quite modern with only a code to enter at the e-kiosk. Kerry's stomach took a turn for the worse after a Starbucks' coffee but managed to keep it together. The flight stopped at Cusco before Peurto Maldonado seeing some impressive snowy topped mountains from the plane.

After touching down and exiting the plane, the heat was instant and wasted no time to apply the insect repellent. Had some slight confusion identifying our next tour rep expecting a Llama Travel board but soon found Delford from Refugio Amazonas, who's obviously been with too many English quoting 'lovely, jubbly'.

The transfer out of the airport was a massive 4 x 4 bus going to the secure hut to drop most of our luggage before the 2.5 hour boat ride. We'd been advised to repack and only take essential clothing and items, all quite exhausting in the melting heat and humidity with local dogs having the better idea of lying down.

Whilst waiting for the rest of the tourists to arrive I asked Delford if there were any big spiders in the jungle. Luckily he didn't wind me up saying there were no tarantulas either in the jungle or the lodge. He did point out the one straight above our heads in the thatched roof - a big hairy black one but a little too far to worry about.

We were all given a packed pre-lunch snack for the bus journey to the boat. It contained some strange fruit juice, some banana chips, some sugar frosted brazil nuts and special fruit with fibrous orange stuff inside. All very tasty. About 30 minutes later we got to the boat, a long then canopied vessel. leaving around 2pm we saw all manner of animals. It was slightly annoying not being able to see them first off as they were very well camouflaged plus they were just that bit too far to get good photos. Our proper lunch was wrapped up in banana leaf containing a special fried rice with bits of chicken which was surprisingly very tasty.

For about 2 hours the cruise was quite relaxing with every corner a new sight but the novelty wore off after the passport check. There was still another 30 minutes to go and it was getting dark. The sun had set awhile ago when we reached the lodge's dock around 6:30pm. No lights to mark the landing position and head torches needed to walk through the jungle to the lodge. We were welcomed but a much needed cold drink, a cold, wet flannel and the housekeeper to explain the rules.

Meatballs was our dinner meal and had cocktails to celebrate. The alcohol was regretted as we had to go cayman (small crocs) spotting on the boat later that night as well as the news of a 6:00am start tomorrow!
Our Room
We had some very comfy single beds with mosquito nets, a cold shower (only after 5pm), a flushing toilet, a safe and kerosene lighting.
Cayman Spotting
We saw about 2 or 3 caymans with one very, very close. It was about 2 metres long laying still in the water next to the river bank and right next to Kerry's side of the boat. Kerry started to climb on me to get away then scared everyone as the cayman thrashed around then submerged. The walk back from the boat revealed some more scary wildlife seeing a Blunt Headed Tree Snake, a Tailless Whip Scorpion (pictured) and a couple of Stick Insects getting it on!

Back at our room for an early night and earplugs inserted to block out the jungle sounds. These included crickets, tree frogs, something like a squeaky wheel, 3 whistle notes then a strange croak, builders sawing and staff playing volleyball (the last two during the day).

Peru Day 2: Lima phone book

Whilst in the hotel room, Kerry found the telephone directories for Lima and, with a little spare time on my hands, found the following facts:

• Since there are 8 million people living in Lima there are two large directories
• The name PEREZ is popular at 12 pages
• FLORES is the most popular at 22 pages
• I found 4 entries for COLEMAN
• There are about 25 FIDEL CASTROs
• I found 4 pages of PONCEs
• There are 17 pages of GONZALES
• Just one entry for SPEEDY GONZALES

Peru Day 2: Lima

Woke up about 4:30am, snoozed a bit then got up at 6:15am - damn jetlag. Our view from the hotel room was grey with seeing only 50 metres beyond because of the smog.

Learnt my first Latin American IT lesson - ALT and 64 is the @ sign when using the internet.

We headed out for the Inca Market but noticed how quiet the streets were then realised it was Good Friday with nothing open so walked over to the local parks. The sound of parakeets flying above just brought it home that we were in South America. We found some park benches but Kerry got told off by the park police for having her feet on the seat. More exploring and we went down to the cliff side park at the top of the cobble hill we experienced the night before. In the middle of the Gaudi-like walled enclosure was a statue of some overweight lovers kissing each other. The sea mist had come in at this point so headed up the coast to some shopping arcade cut into the cliffs. There were alot of nuns shopping for some reason which was odd for such a holy day.

We experienced our first Peruvian drink, Inka Cola which was delicious like drinking bubblegum. Its the number one selling soft drink outselling Coke but is now mostly owned by Coke themselves. Lunch was cheap, fresh and delicious.

Llama Travel gave us a free tour of the city and visited many interesting places we wouldn't have had time or knowledge to do. A couple of 'pyramids', the first was next to a restaurant made of millions of single bricks. I think it was called Huaca Pucllana. The second pyramid was Huallamarca which they found a mummy with the longest hair (2m) and her eyes had been mummified.

Our mini-bus tour continued through the diplomatic suburb then on to the main square, Plaza de Armas where we found everyone from Lima crammed in to celebrate Good Friday. The cathedral had huge speaker systems broadcasting the sermons from inside. It was slightly chaotic as every Lima family member must have been there or climbing the distant hill above the colourful shanty towns where a large crucifix crowned the top. There was a large police presence as well with armoured cars and police with batons and riot shields guarding the government palace.

We walked a little further to a small museum and the rep used his influence to open it especially for us (as did he for the pyramid museum before). It displayed what the old city walls and previous archaeological digs had discovered. Close to the museum was a public park where the locals were enjoying the fun fair and tourist train (a tractor dressed as a train) with fake 'choo choo' sound effects.

Before we left the park we saw our first llamas which someone had brought along to sell photo opportunities and a guy dressed up in a Barney the Dinosaur outfit selling yo-yo balls. The drive back to the hotel revealed a seedier, run-down side of Lima not seen before. If you're familiar with Family Guy (or Padre de Familia) then you'll appreciate the sight of the Chicken costumed man handing out restaurant flyers.

Peru Day 1: Lima arrival

Edited highlights edition until I get back to Blighty.

• Business class rules - the sleeping chair is the best, pity Iberia have lousy food and in-flight entertainment.
• Saw the mighty Amazon river - it was Amazoning(sic)
• Lots of banners for waiting Peruvian family at exit doors of airport. Our rep let us in to some local culture and possibly some snobbery.
• Peruvian roads are a mixture of potholes, smooth surfaces and full-on cobble streets
• Hotel very plush with flat screen telly, about 60 channels, 18 floors and a pianist in reception - Casa Andina Private Collection
• Jetlag got us at 4:30am and decided to get up at 6am
• Saw 5 parrots flying past window after the smog had lifted - could see about 30 metres
• Going to do some local exploring in the safe bit of town then some Colonnial trip at 2pm
• Early start tomorrow for jungle trip - 6am for pickup

The end is near

The excitement of the Peru holiday has been very low on my radar due to a couple of things. I've been working a lot of evenings to get a major project finished - a new Content Management System for the Institute. This has possibly been one of the most stressful things I've done and it felt like putting years on me with the decisions I've had to make along the way. Bonus is that I've somehow built up enough time in lieu to take 3 days off in May.

Whilst all this has been happening we've been struggling to come to terms with the decision of whether to put down our furry best friend, Sasha. The vet couldn't really say exactly how long he had but quoted weeks. The worst was he looked and acted almost normal so it just seemed wrong. But after a few more days did we start to see him change. Apparently cats have a high pain tolerance - so he's one hard b*stard.

So, on our last day we fed him a sedation pill to calm him down for his last car journey. This was possibly the most heart-string pulling experience. He hardly ate any of it but the crushed pill had a quick effect as he wobbled upto the top of the garden. A small hiss at me as I whisked him up he settled for a lie down in the sun and started to relax. As the time approached to take him to the vets I laid him on his favourite sleeping cushion. He was so relaxed that long steaming turd came out - a rare moment that day to relieve the tears and sadness as we laughed at the embarrassment of it. The journey and waiting time before was just as painful but Sasha was relaxed and took it all in his stride sitting on my lap. The final moment was instant with no pain, only a huge empty feeling in us. We're missing you mate badly!

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